Batteries
Whilst most R/C fliers are quite happy to entrust the
engine and fuel to the lap of the gods, batteries remain for the most part, a very misunderstood part of the machine. Most
people have at best a rudimentary clue as to how they function, approx. or
thereabouts. You get the general idea. There are Dry cells, Nickel Cadmium (NiCd's),
Nickel Metal
Hydride (NiMh's), Lithium Polymer (Li-Po's), Lead Acid, the list is bewildering
and not a little confusing for anybody who has decided to avoid making the study
of batteries a career choice! Lithium Polymer batteries are the "new kid on the
block" and they are becoming the battery of choice for many applications
particularly for indoor electric helicopters.
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NiCd and NiMh Batteries
NiCd's and NiMh's are the most commonly used
source of power for radio transmitters and receivers.
If a NiCd or NiMh battery is repeatedly fully
charged and then used an amount that is less than full capacity (let's say you
charge and regularly have three or four flights in a session), after a period of
time, it may not be able to deliver any more than the capacity frequently used.
This is called memory effect. Quite often this apparent memory condition may
simply be voltage depression where the voltage of a cell is slightly less than
rated. This can happen for several reasons such as operating at higher
temperatures, extended overcharging, operation below 0°C, etc. The cell may
actually be operating at or close to full capacity but the voltage appears
slightly less. If you wish to avoid this condition, you can "cycle" the
batteries, that is, fully discharge the pack and then fully charge it. To do this you will need to purchase a battery
"conditioner" or "cycler", there are quite a few to choose from and really it is
down to how much you want (can afford) to spend.
Delta Peak and other
transistor/computer controlled chargers are becoming the
norm now. Many people no longer trickle charge their batteries
overnight, they are charged by a controller charger and quite often this
is done at the field. It makes perfect sense really, you KNOW they are
charged. There is nothing worse than wondering if the "glow" is charged
or not and is that the cause of the engine not starting!
For a standard receiver pack we would
recommend a 4.8V NiCd or MiMh pack with at least a 1700mAh capacity. For a
helicopter using faster and more powerful servos along with a digital gyro and
engine governor a 2400mAh or even 3300mAh pack would be a necessity and should
only be used for a maximum of four flights before it is charged.
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| Li-Po Batteries: for electric flight These batteries
are becoming more and more common for powering electric helicopters. The
pro points for this type of battery is its much lower weight and ability
to produce a more consistent power delivery. It is important to never
totally deplete a Li-Po battery below its threshold level of around 3
volts per cell as the battery cells will be permanently damaged. The
symptoms of damaged Li-Po cells are that the cell skin will puff up like
a balloon, or the battery can no longer accept a charge. When the cell
is damaged, the peak charger will shut down quickly every time you
connect the charger to the battery and if you keep trying to charge a
defective Li-Po pack, then it might explode violently. You must never
charge the battery unattended and never short out a pack, as they can be
very volatile, if the cells are shorted, or the charger is put on a
wrong setting, too high a charge current is used, or if the cells are
damaged and you repeatedly attempt to charge them, then the battery can
explode.
Unlike NiCd or MiMh battery packs Li-Po's do not
suffer from memory effects but the life of the battery is limited to a
particular number of cycles and each time you 'top it up' you are
effectively loosing a cycle life.
It is necessary to buy a charger that is designed
specifically for charging Li-Po cells. These can vary in price, but have
come down quite a lot in the last few months. A simple Li-Po charger
that can charge up to three cells in series and at up to one amp current
can be had for as little as £20 to £30. Sophisticated Orbit and Schultz
Li-Po chargers can charge up to 11 Li-Po cells in series and at up to 8
amps, and can be bought for £120 to £300 pounds.
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Li-Po Batteries: for radio receiver power
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It is
possible to use a Li-Po battery for your radio receiver supply though
this is not common practice for your average club flier and most opt for a NiCd or NiMh pack
of suitably high capacity. If you do wish to use a Li-Po then there are
an increasing number of options available on the market.
Duralite produce an excellent range of receiver batteries rated at
7.4V and up to 4000mAH. These packs are arranged with four cells (2S2P) wired
for two cell redundancy with two cells in series and two cells in
parallel.
Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries rated at 7.4V require the use of a
voltage regulator. Regulators vary between 5.1V, 5.6V and 6.0V if
your radio gear can handle the extra voltage. A 6V regulator would
also need a step down to 5.1V for your gyro/tail servo in a
helicopter. Duralite regulators have an 'electronic switch'. The
current does not pass directly through the switch, the switch
merely turns the regulator on and off. Should the switch fail in
flight the regulator remains on until the battery is unplugged. |

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Fromeco Arizona also produce a regulator specifically for
helicopter use and this has both an adjustable output from 5.0 to
6.5V and a dedicated 5V output for the gyro/tail servo. These are
available in the UK from
RealRaptors. These regulators are switched by means of a
failsafe flag pin which must be removed to turn the regulator on.
The upside of using Li-Po's is that they are much lighter and
deliver a constant power to your radio equipment. The downside is
that they are extremely expensive and as mentioned in the section
above you will need a specialist Li-Po battery charger. They also
take quite a few hours to full charge so you would need to plan
for flying beforehand as field charging is not really possible. |
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